PPS-Pro dosing guide for planted tanks

How to use Aquafertz — the complete PPS-Pro dosing guide

Everything you need to know about PPS-Pro dosing for your planted tank. This guide covers mixing your aquarium plant fertiliser, light-level dosing, reading plant deficiencies, water changes, and why chelated iron DTPA outperforms standard EDTA in most UK tanks.

No scales needed
No chemistry knowledge required
Works with any planted tank
Safe for shrimp & fish
1
Open your kit

Lay everything out before you start mixing

Full PPS-Pro aquarium plant fertiliser kit — compounds, bottles and syringes

Open the full PPS-Pro kit and you’ll find five labelled compound packs, two 500ml mixing bottles, and two syringes. Check everything is there before you start.

The compounds are: Potassium Nitrate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulphate, Magnesium Sulphate, and Micro Mix. The first four are your macronutrients — they all go into one bottle together. The Micro Mix goes into the second bottle on its own.

Before you begin, it helps to have:

  • The two 500ml bottles and syringes from the kit
  • Tap water — or RO/distilled if you have it (better for the micro bottle)
  • A marker pen to label and date your bottles
Tip: Label your bottles “MACRO” and “MICRO” before you start. Write the mix date on each one too so you know how old the solution is.
2
Mix your bottles

Add the aquarium plant fertiliser compounds, fill with water

Macro bottle: pour all four macro compound packs in, fill to 500ml with water, screw the lid on, and shake for 30–60 seconds. The solution should turn mostly clear.

Micro bottle: pour the Micro Mix in, fill to 500ml, and shake well. This one may stay slightly coloured — that’s the chelated iron, completely normal.

Let both bottles rest for 12–24 hours before first use to allow everything to fully dissolve and settle.

Important: Never combine the macro and micro compounds into the same bottle. The iron and phosphate will react, precipitate, and become unavailable to your plants. Two separate bottles — always.
3
Dose your tank

PPS-Pro dosing — once daily, before lights come on

PPS-Pro is a daily dosing system. Draw up the right amount from each bottle using the syringe and add it to your tank — ideally first thing in the morning, just before the lights switch on. Dose the macro bottle first, then the micro bottle.

The standard starting dose is 1ml of each bottle per 10 litres for medium/high light tanks. Halve it for low-light setups, double it for very high light with CO₂ injection.

Shrimp tanks: Start at the low-light dose regardless of your actual light level. Build up gradually over a couple of weeks — shrimp are sensitive to sudden changes in water chemistry.
4
Maintain

Dose daily. Water change when TDS rises.

That’s the whole routine. Every day, dose both bottles. One of PPS-Pro’s advantages is that large routine water changes aren’t required — instead, you do a 50% change when your TDS reading tells you nutrient levels are building up.

When a compound runs low — usually the Potassium Nitrate first — pick it up individually from our aquarium fertiliser compounds page and top up your macro bottle. No need to replace everything at once.

Storage: Both bottles keep for several months in a cool, dark place. Refrigerating the micro bottle extends its shelf life further — the chelated trace elements are more temperature-sensitive than the macros.
Dosing Reference

PPS-Pro dosing guide — how much aquarium plant fertiliser should I use?

Your dose scales with how hard your plants are working — primarily determined by light intensity and whether you’re running CO₂. Use the table below as your starting point and adjust based on how your plants respond.

Light Level Tank Type Macro (ml / 10L / day) Micro (ml / 10L / day) Weekly NO₃ target Water Changes
Low Light Low tech, no CO₂, slow growers, shrimp tanks 0.5 ml 0.25 ml ~3.5 ppm 50% weekly (optional)
Medium / High Standard PPS-Pro setup, CO₂ recommended 1.0 ml 0.5 ml ~7 ppm 50% when TDS rises
Very High High tech, CO₂ injected, fast-growing scape 2.0 ml 1.0 ml ~14 ppm 50% when TDS rises

Doses are per 10 litres, dosed daily. A 100 litre medium-light tank = 10ml macro + 5ml micro per day.

Quick reference — medium/high light planted tanks

Standard PPS-Pro dose (1.0ml macro + 0.5ml micro per 10L, daily). Halve for low-light; double for very high light.

Tank Size Macro (ml / day) Micro (ml / day)
30 litres3 ml1.5 ml
60 litres6 ml3 ml
100 litres10 ml5 ml
150 litres15 ml7.5 ml
200 litres20 ml10 ml
300 litres30 ml15 ml
Water Changes

When should I change the water in a PPS-Pro planted tank?

One of PPS-Pro’s key advantages is that large, scheduled water changes aren’t required. A simple TDS meter monitors nutrient accumulation — and you only change water when the reading tells you to.

The rule
Do a 50% water change when your tank TDS exceeds your tap water TDS by more than 100 µS.

Example: if your tap water reads 300 µS, change 50% when the tank reaches 400 µS. This prevents nutrient build-up while keeping maintenance to a minimum. A basic TDS pen costs a few pounds and is well worth keeping beside your tank.

New growth looking pale?

This usually indicates a micronutrient or iron deficiency. Try increasing your micro dose slightly, or check that your water pH is in a range where iron remains available. New leaves are affected first because iron is immobile in plants.

Algae starting to appear?

Algae is rarely caused by too many nutrients alone — it’s almost always an imbalance. Check your CO₂ stability first; fluctuating CO₂ is the most common cause. If CO₂ is consistent, reduce your dose slightly and check whether your light period needs shortening.

Plant Health

Reading aquarium plant deficiencies — what your leaves are telling you

Plants show deficiencies in their leaves before anything else. The single most useful thing to observe is whether symptoms are appearing on older leaves or new growth — mobile nutrients show deficiency in old leaves first; immobile nutrients show in new growth first.

Nutrient Mobility Where it shows What you’ll see What to do
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Older leaves first Yellowing from the midvein outwards, overall pale growth Increase macro dose; check KNO₃ levels
Phosphorus (P) Mobile Older leaves first Reddish or purple leaf edges, poor root development Increase macro dose
Potassium (K) Very mobile Older leaves first Yellowing leaf margins, pinholes in older leaves, curling tissue Increase macro dose; buy Potassium Sulphate individually
Magnesium (Mg) Mobile Older leaves first Pale older leaves with greener veins remaining Increase macro dose; buy Magnesium Sulphate individually
Calcium (Ca) Immobile New growth first Deformed or pale new leaves, stunted growing tips Usually a water issue — add a GH booster if using RO water
Iron (Fe) Immobile New growth first Yellow new leaves with green veins still visible (interveinal chlorosis) Increase micro dose; check pH is below 7.5

Old leaves affected → mobile nutrient (N, P, K, Mg). New leaves affected → immobile nutrient (Fe, Ca). That one observation narrows the diagnosis considerably.

Iron & Chelation

Why we use Iron DTPA in our aquarium plant fertiliser

Iron is critical for aquatic plants but quickly becomes insoluble in water. Chelation keeps it dissolved and available. There are three chelate types commonly used in aquarium fertilisers, and they’re not interchangeable.

Fe-EDTA
Standard EDTA
Stable range: pH 4 – 6.5

The most common chelate in basic fertiliser mixes. Affordable but loses stability rapidly above pH 6.5 — largely ineffective in most planted aquariums which run at neutral or slightly above.

Fe-EDDHA
EDDHA Chelate
Stable range: pH 4 – 9+

The most powerful iron chelate — stable even in highly alkaline water. Best reserved for tanks with a pH consistently above 7.5, or persistent iron deficiency unresolved by DTPA.

If you’re seeing iron deficiency despite regular dosing: check your pH before increasing the dose. A pH above 7.5 prevents DTPA iron from being available to plants regardless of how much you add. Our Iron DTPA 11% is available individually if you need to top up. Not started yet? View the full kit →
Common Questions

PPS-Pro dosing FAQ — your questions answered

The questions we get asked most often about PPS-Pro and Aquafertz, answered properly.

Can I combine the macro and micro compounds into one bottle?

No — never. The iron in the micro bottle reacts with phosphate from the macro bottle and forms an insoluble precipitate. Both nutrients become unavailable to your plants. Always keep them in separate bottles and dose them separately.

Do I need to do regular water changes with PPS-Pro?

Not on a fixed schedule, no. PPS-Pro is designed around TDS monitoring rather than routine water changes. Do a 50% change when your tank TDS rises more than 100 µS above your tap water baseline. In many tanks this might be every 3–4 weeks rather than every week.

Should I refrigerate the bottles?

It’s optional but beneficial, particularly for the micro bottle. Chelated trace elements are more temperature-sensitive than the macro salts — keeping the micro bottle in the fridge extends its shelf life. The macro bottle is fine at room temperature in a cool, dark place.

How do I scale my dose for a larger or smaller tank?

Doses scale linearly with tank volume. The base rate is 1ml macro + 0.5ml micro per 10 litres per day (medium/high light). For a 250 litre tank that’s 25ml macro + 12.5ml micro daily. Halve everything for low-light or shrimp tanks; double for very high light with CO₂ injection.

Is this aquarium plant fertiliser safe for shrimp?

Yes. The Aquafertz Micro Mix is copper-free and safe for shrimp and other invertebrates. The stable, low daily dosing approach of PPS-Pro also avoids the sudden spikes in water chemistry that stress invertebrates.

My plants are yellowing — what should I do first?

First, check whether it’s old leaves or new leaves that are affected. Old leaves = mobile nutrient deficiency (N, P, K, or Mg) — increase your macro dose. New leaves = immobile nutrient issue (iron or calcium) — increase your micro dose or check your pH is below 7.5. If algae is appearing at the same time, check your CO₂ stability before adjusting nutrients.

One compound has run out before the others — do I need to buy a whole new kit?

No. Each compound in the macro bottle is available to buy individually from the compounds page. Just add the required amount of whichever compound has run low directly to your macro bottle and top up with water if needed.

Do I need CO₂ injection for PPS-Pro to work?

PPS-Pro works with or without CO₂, but the dose should reflect it. Without CO₂ injection, use the low-light dose (0.5ml macro / 0.25ml micro per 10L) even if your lighting is moderate. CO₂ is the main driver of plant growth rate, and nutrients should always be scaled to match growth.

Can I make a smaller batch — half a bottle instead of 500ml?

Yes. Simply halve all the compound amounts and mix to 250ml instead of 500ml. The nutrient ratios remain exactly the same, and the daily dosing amounts stay identical. This is a good option for smaller tanks where a full 500ml bottle would take a very long time to use up.

What’s the difference between macros and micros?

The macro bottle supplies nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium — needed in relatively large quantities for growth and cellular function. The micro bottle delivers trace elements including chelated iron, manganese, zinc, boron, and molybdenum — needed in very small amounts but equally essential for chlorophyll synthesis and nutrient transport.

The method

Why PPS-Pro is the best aquarium plant fertiliser method for most hobbyists

There are dozens of fertiliser methods out there. PPS-Pro has stood the test of time for one reason: it’s designed to maintain stable, low nutrient levels — which keeps algae under control and plants consistently well-nourished, without demanding much of the keeper.

Steady nutrient levels

Rather than dosing a large amount at once, PPS-Pro tops up nutrients in small daily amounts — preventing the spikes and crashes that trigger algae growth and stress livestock.

No routine testing

PPS-Pro doesn’t require regular water chemistry testing. A basic TDS meter is the only monitoring tool you need — and even that’s optional once you’ve found your rhythm.

Safe for shrimp & invertebrates

The low, consistent dosing approach is one of the reasons PPS-Pro is popular with shrimp keepers. No sudden spikes, no chemical crashes — just stable, predictable water chemistry day to day.

Ready to start?

Get your aquarium plant fertiliser kit today

Everything in this guide comes in the box. Order the full PPS-Pro kit and you’ll be set up by the end of the day.